Living on the Oahu’s North Shore in the winter isn’t always the greatest thing. The crowds are hectic the vibe is tense and the waves can go flat for weeks at a time. Having grown up on Kauai, it’s like stepping into a new world. My digs are at the Quiksilver House located right on the beach at Pipeline and this is a sample of what I do all winter. Sunday morning, like every morning, Reef woke me up around 6am by jumping his fat ass on my bed, got up had some coffee and watched the surf for about a half hour. It wasn’t spectacular but, got out there and had a fun session. Went for another surf around noon but the waves seemed to be dropping and called it a day when the onshores came up. Me, Hakman, Lief, Kamalei Alexander and Charlie Boy rallied for lunch, then Leif had the idea to go for a mission in the Pupukea Mountains to go blast a few rounds. I myself have never shot a real gun before except for my dad’s 22 pistol years ago so I had some mental butterfly’s going. On the way up to the spot there were some pretty deep mud puddles and chaotic hill climbs. Sure enough Charlie’s truck got stuck in the mud and we couldn’t get it out. Fortunately for the boys this is a common occurrence and Lief had to drive his tuck to get a tow rope to yank him out. In all my 17yrs I have never seen a truck so muddy in my life!! Charlie said it took him 3 hours to clean a few days later. So, when we finally got up there it I got to shoot Lief’s M16 and Kamalei’s 30-30. It was so sick! After that it was time for a shower to scrub off a layer of mud that thick, I could have used it as a wetsuit in Cali! Reef Mcintosh, super chef extraordinaire cooked us up a feast so big that when I was finished it had me asleep by 10.
Monday, the surf had almost tripled in size with almost no wind. All the boys were in the yard and the Volcom house deciding if the Backdoor Shootout should be ran. They decided there was no $50K waves to be ridden and looked like it could turn onshore so they postponed it. Went for my morning surf as always but it was not real Pipe or Backdoor. It was super chunky and mixed up. Reef and David Dupont went to Haleiwa with Daniel Russo to shoot some photos and they got some solid 8ft bombs in chocolate brown water. After they came back and we all had lunch the wind seemed to be clocking back offshore and it was cleaning up. Reef had his mind set on surfing Rockpiles, the wave way outside and to the left of Pipeline. So Reef, Dupont, and I broke out our 7’4s and 7’6s for the solid 10ft surf. We paddled from Pipe all the way out there, it was a far paddle but that was one of the best surfs I have had all year. There were huge glassy ten footers that you could do three or four turns on, but the inside was full of unforgiving death slabs. We surfed for about and hour and a half and headed in. Before dark we had another session at Waimea shore break. It was fun, rippable lefts with some sick air sections. The River looked like it could break soon so we decided to check it in the morning.
Today we got up slow and cruised for a while. Around 9 we headed to the Waimea rivermouth. We got there and no one was around except for the lifeguards. Dupont, Hakman, Russo and I dug out opening of the river in about a half hour. After we were done digging the donkeys started showing up..go figure? In the time it took for the stationary waves to start working there were more than 15 “Johnny Come Lately’s” there. Skimboarders that look like they were from the Mainland or somewhere, random boggieboarders, and even a paddle boarder enjoyed the fruits of our labor. The river waves were going off for about and hour and by the end my legs were completely noodled. After that we ate lunch in Haleiwa and here I am with a full stomach about to pass out. SEE YA. – T.N.