Whatya know tic tac toe, three in a row! Pipe and Off The Wall (otw) have been good for the last three days straight. We basically just sit at the house or out in front of the house (Pipe and OTW) all day long. I spent most of the time down at OTW with just a few guys to avoid battling the pack at Pipe. I guess there are more closeouts at OTW but theres also mirror images of Backdoor. The first night of this swell Pipe was on, the tide was really low and the conditions were dangerous! Extremely shallow and doubling up. One guy wasn’t as lucky as the rest while attempting a late take off. He threw his board to the side and basically went over with the lip. He hit the reef and was knocked out and under water for multiple waves; once someone noticed his board tombstoning nearly everyone out helped him to shore. His face was purple and we all thought he was dead? After CPR appeared helpless by the lifeguards the fire fighters showed up and worked their magic. Luckily they brought him back and shortly after he was off to the hospital. It was pretty crazy to see all that go down and it really makes you think of how dangerous surfing theses incredible waves can be! From everyone at the Pipe House we wish a speedy recovery for that unknown charger. -K.B.
1-800-435-9917 ORLive Chat