3rd Reef, 2nd Reef, 1st Reef. SPIT!!! Pipe was completely nutz today! Comparable to one of the best days of the whole winter. We surfed Pipe at the crack this morning and then the trials for the Masters was on. I watched some really good heats go down and the QS House cheered for Tyler (Newton)in his heat. After a solid fist wave he took off on a heavy second one, didn’t make it out of the barrel, broke his board and sliced his head open. Surprisingly he grabbed another board, paddled back out and made the heat! Full on warrior! After the heat the medics put 7 staples in his head.
It was really hot out and I needed to get wet. I gabbed my big ol’ 8′ 6” and took it out for its last session at Sunset. After a few good ones, an oversized wedge detonated right in front of me! I ditched my board, got a solid pounding and came up with about 1 foot of the tail left. Then I was greeted by like 6 more of its brothers right on the head before I started my journey back to shore. It was a long tiring swim, but thats just the kind of stuff you have to expect over here. I walked back to the house and watched the remainder of the trials with the boyz. In my opinion Jason Frederico’s perfect 10pt’r was the wave of the day! Unfortunately Tyler didn’t make it through his 2nd round heat but then again would you surf massive 2nd Reef Pipe with 7 staples in your head?
After the comp I paddled out for a few more before dark and luckily didn’t get too pounded. Another great day of surf over here on the North Shore. Congratz to the 8 trialists who advanced to compete in the 2009 Pipe Masters!